{"id":776,"date":"2010-12-03T23:25:29","date_gmt":"2010-12-03T23:25:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/?p=776"},"modified":"2010-12-03T23:37:47","modified_gmt":"2010-12-03T23:37:47","slug":"shadbolts-chimney","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/?p=776","title":{"rendered":"Shadbolt’s Chimney"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Pete Macpherson on the first winter ascent of Shadbolt's Chimney (VII,7), Bhasteir Tooth, Skye - "the wierdest route I have ever climbed."(Photo Pete Macpherson Collection)<\/p><\/div>\n

Yesterday (December 2), Pete Macpherson, Martin Moran and Francis Blunt made the first winter ascent of Shadbolt’s Chimney on the Bhasteir Tooth on Skye. This 50m-high fierce slit on the north face of the Tooth was first climbed by Shadbolt and MacLaren in 1906 via a ‘tortuous through route.’ In 1932 Tarbuck and Colin found the Outside Variation which avoids some of the back and footing deep in the bowels of the chimney.<\/p>\n

“I have to say its the weirdest route I have ever climbed,” Pete told me. “The chimney disappears right into the back of the tooth where a through route leads out to the other side. I chose to head out the other way [the Outside Variation] towards the light. This involved extreme chimney\/caving out under a 8-10 metre roof before heading up into the upper squeeze chimney. It involved the strangest of contortions and a massive rack of 16ft slings and cams up to size 6! Getting gear in was desperate as I could hardy move without getting jammed or tangled in the rope!. Its almost impossible to grade however VI\/VII,7 with a pinch of salt is about right.”<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Yesterday (December 2), Pete Macpherson, Martin Moran and Francis Blunt made the first winter ascent of Shadbolt’s Chimney on the Bhasteir Tooth on Skye. This 50m-high fierce slit on the north face of the Tooth was first climbed by Shadbolt … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[127,95,45,6],"class_list":["post-776","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-new-route","tag-bhasteir-tooth","tag-francis-blunt","tag-martin-moran","tag-pete-macpherson"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/776","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=776"}],"version-history":[{"count":13,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/776\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":790,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/776\/revisions\/790"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=776"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=776"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=776"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}