{"id":6619,"date":"2018-01-12T16:01:25","date_gmt":"2018-01-12T16:01:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/?p=6619"},"modified":"2018-01-12T16:01:25","modified_gmt":"2018-01-12T16:01:25","slug":"marmalade-first-winter-ascent","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/?p=6619","title":{"rendered":"Marmalade &#8211; First Winter Ascent"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_6620\" style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-6620\" class=\"size-full wp-image-6620\" src=\"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/06Jan2018_Buachaille-Etive-Mor001.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"667\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/06Jan2018_Buachaille-Etive-Mor001.jpg 500w, http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/06Jan2018_Buachaille-Etive-Mor001-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-6620\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Barnard on the first pitch of Marmalade (VI,6) on Buachaille Etive Mor during the first winter ascent. This two-pitch mixed route lies on D Gully Buttress. (Photo John MacLeod)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>On January 7, Michael Barnard and John MacLeod had a fine day making the first winter ascent of Marmalade (VI,6)\u00a0on D Gully Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWith the cold weather and snow down to lower levels, it seemed a good time to try a line I&#8217;d seen a few years ago,\u201d Michael explained. \u201cWhen I checked the guide it turned out to be Marmalade, a summer Severe crack and groove-line [first climbed by Bugs McKeith and Jim Brumfitt in March 1964] which cuts fairly directly\u00a0through Alpen. I found the lower section could thankfully be climbed with the use of both the crack and various bits of frozen turf, though not always with a great deal for the feet. Above, due to the south-east aspect,\u00a0I enjoyed the rare pleasure of belaying in the sun on a winter route!<\/p>\n<p>The upper groove\u00a0pitch would be really nice with neve, but under the current snow conditions was still fairly\u00a0tricky (tech 5-ish), though with a decent bit of gear for each step.<\/p>\n<p>The route turned out to be two pitches long and we graded it VI,6.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>On January 7, Michael Barnard and John MacLeod had a fine day making the first winter ascent of Marmalade (VI,6)\u00a0on D Gully Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor. \u201cWith the cold weather and snow down to lower levels, it seemed a &hellip; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/?p=6619\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[289,542,221],"class_list":["post-6619","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-new-route","tag-buachaille-etive-mor","tag-john-macleod","tag-michael-barnard"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6619","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=6619"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6619\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6621,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6619\/revisions\/6621"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=6619"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=6619"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=6619"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}