{"id":6570,"date":"2017-12-19T19:24:29","date_gmt":"2017-12-19T19:24:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/?p=6570"},"modified":"2017-12-19T19:24:29","modified_gmt":"2017-12-19T19:24:29","slug":"the-orphan-first-winter-ascent","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/?p=6570","title":{"rendered":"The Orphan &#8211; First Winter Ascent"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_6571\" style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-6571\" class=\"size-full wp-image-6571\" src=\"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/14Dec2017_Buachaille-Etive-Mor001.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"667\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/14Dec2017_Buachaille-Etive-Mor001.jpg 500w, http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/14Dec2017_Buachaille-Etive-Mor001-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-6571\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steve Holmes leading The Orphan (VII,8) on Buachaille Etive Mor in Glen Coe. Heavy snow conditions meant that accessing the route via Curved Ridge was a mini expedition in itself. (Photo Duncan Curry)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>On December 14, Steve Holmes, Duncan Curry and Hannah Evans made the first winter ascent of The Orphan (VII,8) on the North-East Face of Crowberry Ridge on The Buachaille. This summer VS, which was first climbed by Messrs. Read, Jones and Swainbank in September 2000, lies on the steep wall cut by cracks and corners to the right of Engineer\u2019s Crack and Crowberry Ridge, Direct Route.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt was a proper full-on wade to gain the foot of the chimney that accesses the platform under the main pitch,\u201d Steve told me. \u201cBut we battled on accepting it was going to be a long day. Hannah dug her way up Curved Ridge, Duncan got us up the awkward chimney and I got the main pitch.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s super sustained, steep and really good climbing and easily worth VII,8. The gear is excellent but all kinds of hand jams, knee bars along with flat hooks were needed to gain upward movement. I took a small fall on the crux which I am really disappointed with, but I managed to get straight back on finding a better sequence second time round.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>On December 14, Steve Holmes, Duncan Curry and Hannah Evans made the first winter ascent of The Orphan (VII,8) on the North-East Face of Crowberry Ridge on The Buachaille. This summer VS, which was first climbed by Messrs. Read, Jones &hellip; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/?p=6570\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[289,544,539,515],"class_list":["post-6570","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-new-route","tag-buachaille-etive-mor","tag-duncan-curry","tag-hannah-evans","tag-steve-holmes"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6570","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=6570"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6570\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6572,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6570\/revisions\/6572"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=6570"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=6570"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=6570"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}