{"id":5824,"date":"2016-01-24T11:34:12","date_gmt":"2016-01-24T11:34:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/?p=5824"},"modified":"2016-01-24T11:34:12","modified_gmt":"2016-01-24T11:34:12","slug":"gentlemens-excuse-me","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/?p=5824","title":{"rendered":"Gentlemen&#8217;s Excuse Me"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_5825\" style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5825\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5825\" alt=\"Martin Holland contemplating the 55m-high icefall of Gentlemen's Excuse Me (IV,5) near Drumochter. The route was climbed in two pitches and descended by abseil. (Photo Gregor Ewing)\" src=\"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/21Jan2016_Drumochter001.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"667\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/21Jan2016_Drumochter001.jpg 500w, http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/21Jan2016_Drumochter001-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-5825\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Martin Holland contemplating the 55m-high icefall of Gentlemen&#8217;s Excuse Me (IV,5) near Drumochter. The route was climbed in two pitches and descended by abseil. (Photo Gregor Ewing)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>\u201cI was out yesterday [January 21] on Geal-charn, Drumochter,\u201d Martin Holland writes. \u201cWe were heading for the main Creag Dhubh crag, but some nasty snow conditions on the approach above the crag forced a change of plan. Gregor Ewing, Linda Gentleman and I ended up climbing a possible new line on the second crag north-east of the main crag. The crag is only 60m or so high, but the climb gave two very good ice\/turf pitches. It climbed at V,5 on the day and required a delicate approach on the first pitch, if it was better formed and taking screws it might be IV,5 or possibly IV,4, so I&#8217;ve suggested IV,5 as the bottom pitch will always be steep. In good conditions it would be worthy of a star for the first pitch.<\/p>\n<p>The route name choice is because Linda Gentlemen uncharacteristically came off a few times on the second, resulting in some broken ice, colourful language and apologies!\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u201cI was out yesterday [January 21] on Geal-charn, Drumochter,\u201d Martin Holland writes. \u201cWe were heading for the main Creag Dhubh crag, but some nasty snow conditions on the approach above the crag forced a change of plan. Gregor Ewing, Linda &hellip; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/?p=5824\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[586,575,585,123],"class_list":["post-5824","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-new-route","tag-geal-charn","tag-gregor-ewing","tag-linda-gentleman","tag-martin-holland"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5824","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5824"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5824\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5857,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5824\/revisions\/5857"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5824"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5824"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5824"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}