{"id":2631,"date":"2012-01-30T21:38:12","date_gmt":"2012-01-30T21:38:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/?p=2631"},"modified":"2012-01-30T21:38:12","modified_gmt":"2012-01-30T21:38:12","slug":"rudolf-first-winter-ascent","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/?p=2631","title":{"rendered":"Rudolf – First Winter Ascent"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Martin Moran on the third pitch of Rudolf (VIII,8\/9) on Beinn Eighe. Martin considers that the first winter ascent of this summer E2 up the centre of the Far East Wall is the most difficult winter route he has climbed on the mountain to date. (Photo Martin Moran Collection)<\/p><\/div>\n

Murdo Jamieson and Martin Moran had a great day on Beinn Eighe on Monday January 23 with the first winter ascent of Rudolf (VIII,8\/9) on the Far East Wall.<\/p>\n

\u201cConditions were just right after three days of humid cool weather,\u201d Martin told me. \u201cIt was well worth the wait after a long fallow period since Christmas. We reckon the route was near the top end of Grade VIII but not quite Grade IX, very comparable to but slightly more sustained than The Needle. I think the game will have to move on to the E3s to get a definite winter IX on Beinn Eighe; the protection on quartzite is just too good! Murdo thought it a full grade harder than Pic’n Mix which he\u2019d done in friendly conditions the previous week.<\/p>\n

Having done a few routes now on Beinn Eighe my graded list would be:<\/p>\n

Rudolf\u00a0\u00a0 VIII,8\/9<\/p>\n

Pale Rider\u00a0\u00a0 VIII,9<\/p>\n

King of the Swingers\u00a0 VIII,10<\/p>\n

Feast of the East\u00a0 VIII,9<\/p>\n

Sundance\u00a0 VIII,8<\/p>\n

Hydroponicum\u00a0 VIII,8<\/p>\n

Blood, Sweat and Frozen Tears\u00a0 VII,8<\/p>\n

It may seem strange that an VIII,8 should be harder than an VIII,10 but that\u2019s how the grading system should work with the real challenge given by the first number!\u201d<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Murdo Jamieson and Martin Moran had a great day on Beinn Eighe on Monday January 23 with the first winter ascent of Rudolf (VIII,8\/9) on the Far East Wall. \u201cConditions were just right after three days of humid cool weather,\u201d … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[23,45,151],"class_list":["post-2631","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-new-route","tag-beinn-eighe","tag-martin-moran","tag-murdo-jamieson"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2631","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2631"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2631\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2642,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2631\/revisions\/2642"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2631"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2631"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.scottishwinter.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2631"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}