Tag Archives: Lochnagar

Mort – Second Ascent

Posted on February 26, 2013 by Simon Richardson

On February 22, Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson and Nick Bullock pulled off one of Scotland’s the most prized winter repeats with the second winter ascent of Mort (IX,9) on the Tough-Brown Face of Lochnagar. The 1995 SMC guidebook to the … Continue reading →

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Fancy Free on Lochnagar

Posted on February 17, 2013 by Simon Richardson

Pete Benson, Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson succeeded on an excellent technical new route on Lochnagar yesterday before the thaw set in. “We climbed the obvious groove line parallel to and left of Footloose on Central Buttress to give Fancy … Continue reading →

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Insurgents on Lochnagar

Posted on December 19, 2012 by Simon Richardson

Lochnagar is my local crag, and over the years I have climbed almost all of its features, often by multiple routes. But there was one buttress that had eluded me – Sinister Buttress in the Southern Sector. Greg Strange wrote … Continue reading →

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The Gravestone

Posted on December 9, 2012 by Simon Richardson

Craig Lamb and Findlay Cranston made a good addition to Clais Rathadan on December 5, with the first ascent of The Gravestone (VI,6). This little cliff makes a good fall back option of the weather is too wild higher up … Continue reading →

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A Ghost of a Chance

Posted on April 6, 2012 by Simon Richardson

On Wednesday April 4, Craig Lamb and Joel Paterson took advantage of the recent icy blast with a well-timed visit to the Southern Sector on Lochnagar. After the recent warm temperatures (the week before folk were rock climbing on Dubh … Continue reading →

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The Mummy

Posted on March 2, 2012 by Simon Richardson

Some late news – on January 23 Guy Robertson and Pete Macpherson made the first ascent of The Mummy (VIII,8) on The Cathedral on the Southern Sector of Lochnagar. The Mummy is a winter version of Mullahmaloumouktou, a summer E2 … Continue reading →

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Running It Out on Lochnagar

Posted on February 27, 2012 by Simon Richardson

West Buttress on Lochnagar sports a number of excellent winter routes, but apart from Black Spout Buttress and West Gully, they are relatively unfrequented. The climbs are long and feel rather committing, but more importantly, this aspect of the corrie … Continue reading →

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Lochnagar’s Black Spout Wall

Posted on February 8, 2012 by Simon Richardson

Lochnagar’s Black Spout Wall is one of the steepest and most impressive walls in the Cairngorms. It was first climbed in summer by a four-pitch E3 by Dougie Dinwoodie and Bob Smith in August 1976, and it is a highly … Continue reading →

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BMC Winter Meet – Lochnagar Update

Posted on February 1, 2012 by Simon Richardson

Several teams made the cross-Cairngorm roller coaster drive from Glenmore Lodge to Lochnagar during the BMC Winter Meet. On Tuesday January 24, Nick Bullock and US climber Bayard Russell climbed Trail of Tears (VII,8) on the Tough Brown Face. The … Continue reading →

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Lochnagar Cracker

Posted on January 9, 2012 by Simon Richardson

Guy Robertson and Jason Currie made a fine addition to Lochnagar on Friday January 6, with the first ascent of The Cracker on The Cathedral. This three-pitch VII,8 takes the V-groove and cracked wall on the lower left side of … Continue reading →

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