Tag Archives: Lochnagar

Early Bird on Lochnagar

Posted on November 12, 2017 by Simon Richardson

Full winter conditions arrived this weekend on the Scottish mountains with climbing activity on Ben Nevis, the Cairngorms and North-West. First to report a new route were Drew Stevenson and Stuart Cossar who made an enterprising first ascent of Early … Continue reading →

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Blink And You Miss It

Posted on December 29, 2016 by Simon Richardson

“Blink and You Miss It!” Mark Chadwick exclaimed on Facebook after making a well timed ascent of an attractively rimed Auricle (VI,7) in Coire an Lochain with Duncan Hodgson. Following the Christmas Day thaw and Boxing Day storm, winter conditions … Continue reading →

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Winter on The Sentinel

Posted on December 26, 2016 by Simon Richardson

This winter continues to be a frustrating one. A cold snap before Christmas saw Sophie Grace Chapell and I heading for the Southern Sector of Lochnagar. The buttresses on the left side corrie have a westerly aspect, which makes them … Continue reading →

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Lean Times in Raeburn’s Gully

Posted on December 25, 2016 by Simon Richardson

Before the high pressure properly set in at the beginning of December there were some fine days with cool nights. Winter climbing looked pretty hopeless, but the deep gullies high in the Cairngorms kept a little snow and ice. Several … Continue reading →

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Early Season Update

Posted on December 24, 2016 by Simon Richardson

By any measure it’s been a slow start to the season. During the cold snap in November many climbers enjoyed good climbing on the well known early season venues in the Cairngorms and Ben Nevis, but a major thaw followed … Continue reading →

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White Mamba

Posted on February 23, 2016 by Simon Richardson

I’m terrified of snakes so Cnapan Nathraichean (the knoll of the adders) on the north side of Lochnagar has never been one of my favourite crags. One time when I was below the cliff in summer a large female slithered … Continue reading →

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Judas Priest – Possible New Direct Finish

Posted on February 8, 2016 by Simon Richardson

On January 31, Forrest Templeton and Kevin Murphy climbed a possible new Direct Finish to Judas Priest (V,5) on The Cathedral on Lochnagar. “We climbed the first pitch of Judas Priest,” Forrest explained, “but instead of breaking right when it … Continue reading →

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Diedre of the Sorrows – Early Repeat

Posted on January 17, 2014 by Simon Richardson

Pete Macpherson and Martin Moran added to their long list of cutting edge ascents with an ascent of Diedre of the Sorrows (VIII,8) on Lochnagar’s Tough-Brown Face on January 11. This much-celebrated route was first climbed by Dougie Dinwoodie and … Continue reading →

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High Cairngorms Exploration

Posted on December 3, 2013 by Simon Richardson

Autumn is a great time to explore the high Cairngorms. The north-west facing Northern Corries rime up quickly with the first snows of the season, but it is the likes of Braeriach and Beinn a’Bhuird that truly hold the cold … Continue reading →

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Nevermore

Posted on April 14, 2013 by Simon Richardson

On April 8, Nick Bullock and Guy Robertson put to bed one of the last great problems on Lochnagar with the first winter ascent of Nevermore on the Tough-Brown Face. This rarely climbed summer E2 was first climbed by Dougie … Continue reading →

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