Tag Archives: John Lyall

Hidden Ice

Posted on January 14, 2011 by Simon Richardson

On January 7 John Lyall visited Creag Dhubh, overlooking Loch Ericht with Jonathan Preston, where they climbed two new lines. “The first one, Merlin (IV,4), I had been on before in 2001 with two clients,” John told me. ” But … Continue reading →

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More Coire Garbhlach

Posted on January 13, 2011 by Simon Richardson

I received a welcome email from John Lyall (of Leashless Tools Essential fame!) today: “Just thought I should drop you a note about more ‘cutting edge routes’ in the hidden corners of the Highlands! On December 18, Sandy Allan and … Continue reading →

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Leashless Tools Essential!

Posted on January 12, 2011 by Simon Richardson

Yesterday (January 11), Andy Nisbet and John Lyall visited Creag Dubh and climbed the big fault immediately left of Great Wall. “It was the epitome of modern mixed climbing,” Andy told me (with tongue firmly in cheek). “Fifteen minutes from … Continue reading →

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Gael Force Ridge

Posted on January 12, 2011 by Simon Richardson

Late last year on December 16, Andy Nisbet visited the Lower Corrie in Coire Garbhlach in Glen Feshie with Sandy Allan and made the first ascent of Spice Boys (III), the ridge left of Garlic Gully. Andy returned with local … Continue reading →

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The Wonderful Wizard

Posted on December 15, 2010 by Simon Richardson

Three days before making the first winter ascents of Rose Late and Oz with Andy Nisbet (see http://www.scottishwinter.com/?p=951),  John Lyall and Jonathan Preston visited No.2 Gully Buttress on Aonach Dubh on December 4 and made the first ascent of The … Continue reading →

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Sharpening The Sword

Posted on December 13, 2010 by Simon Richardson

Today (December 13), John Lyall, Andy Nisbet and Jonathan Preston added an Independent Finish (IV,5) to The Sword on Carn Etchachan. The Sword climbs the ramp of Red Guard (summer), then leaves it to finish as for Red Guard (winter). … Continue reading →

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The Wizard of Oz

Posted on December 13, 2010 by Simon Richardson

Last week, Sandy Allan, John Lyall, Andy Nisbet had a couple of productive days climbing on No.2 Buttress on the West Face of Aonach Dubh in Glen Coe. On December 7 they added a new climb approximating to the summer … Continue reading →

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Ramping Up Sgorr Ruadh

Posted on December 3, 2010 by Simon Richardson

Despite clear weather in the West, extreme cold, difficult road conditions and sometimes huge depths of snow have made the choice of venue difficult in recent days. Several keen activists have had heir plans dashed. Part of the problem is … Continue reading →

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New Route on Stag Rocks

Posted on November 18, 2010 by Simon Richardson

The south-facing Stag Rocks in the Loch Avon Basin are a good option after a fresh snowfall. They are best early in the season before the sun gets high in the sky and strips the crag. Last week, on Wednesday … Continue reading →

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Late Start to the New Winter Season

Posted on December 28, 2009 by Simon Richardson

It has been a late start to the winter season. November is typically an excellent month for mixed climbing in the Cairngorms, but unseasonally warm temperatures meant that only the most determined found winter routes high on Braeriach and Beinn … Continue reading →

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